From Puma to Nike, including Salomon and New Balance, brands are reinterpreting their iconic silhouettes.
After runners, trail shoes, and football-inspired silhouettes, it’s the mules that are making their mark. Long associated with simple indoor shoes or utilitarian models, the mule is now asserting itself. By removing the heel counter, brands are not just simplifying their silhouettes; they’re offering a fresh take on existing models without ever compromising their identity.
Leading the charge: Puma. For the past two seasons, the German sportswear brand has been reviving its iconic silhouettes, going beyond mere reissues. After bringing back the Speedcat, inspired by the automotive world, the brand continues its push with a mule version that retains the DNA of the original sneaker. More experimental, the Mostro Mule also confirms the strong comeback of 2000s archives. Launched in 1999, this silhouette already stood out from traditional sneaker codes. Its organic design, inspired by both sprint shoes and surf models, quickly gave it a prototype vibe. Now available as a mule, it keeps its atypical construction at a time when the most unique models are often the most sought after.
The same goes for adidas. A staple for several seasons, the Samba OG is also adopting a mule construction. The three-stripe brand refreshes its classic with a minimalist approach that preserves the proportions and iconic details of the original silhouette while giving it a new functionality.
The Mule as a Creative Laboratory
As archives are reinvented, technical silhouettes are following suit. At Salomon, this evolution takes two forms. On one hand, the RX continues its primary mission: to provide maximum comfort after exertion. Designed as a recovery silhouette, it features a breathable construction, making it a reference well beyond the running model. On the other hand, the Xt-4 Mule. By reimagining one of Salomon's most iconic silhouettes, Maison Margiela transforms the XT-4 into a hybrid silhouette, straddling the line between a technical shoe and a fashion piece without erasing its outdoor identity.
On the trail side, Merrell is also climbing higher. Fueled by the excitement around gorpcore, the American brand is releasing its famous hiking shoe with the Moab 2 Slide. Lighter and easier to slip on, it still retains the utilitarian spirit that made the Moab range a success, while adapting to more everyday use.
It's also impossible to ignore the Vibram FiveFingers. With its construction that isolates each toe, this silhouette is as divisive as it is fascinating. Long reserved for barefoot running enthusiasts, the Vibram is now embraced for its atypical silhouette and its aesthetic language of gorpcore. Among the Bostonians, the New Balance 2002R is available in a mule version that retains the running DNA of the original model. With its cushioning and lines inspired by running silhouettes from the 2010s, the sneaker brings a fresh approach to one of the brand's most popular catalog silhouettes.
Collaborations Bring a New Dimension to the Mule
While brands use the mule to revisit their archives, collaborations also allow for pushing the boundaries. The Nike Shox is getting a fresh take thanks to Martine Rose. Emerging in the early 2000s, this silhouette quickly became one of the symbols of Nike's futuristic era. Staying true to her deconstructive approach, the British designer chooses to reinterpret the codes of the shoe without erasing its identity. The Shox's imposing structure is preserved, while the mule construction enhances its volumes and sculptural character.
In a more nostalgic vein, Kids of Immigrants (K.O.I) reimagines the Nike Total 90. A true icon of the early 2000s fields, this silhouette belongs to a specific era: the time of Roberto Carlos's strikes. With its laceless design and deeply rooted DNA in football, the Total 90 seemed stuck in the past. But K.O.I is here to change that, continuing to transform the classics of the Swoosh. After reworking the Air Max SNDR, the California-based brand founded by Daniel Buezo opts to keep the most recognizable elements of the silhouette while giving it a new construction. The laceless design remains intact, but the shoe ditches its heel for a mule version available in two colorways: black and beige.
Beyond just a simple summer trend, the mule is now seen as a new format of expression for brands. Manufacturers are not just looking to offer a more comfortable alternative, but to question the very function of the product. The result? The mule establishes itself as a new way to tell the story of sneakers.